Posted in 3d Printer hacks Tagged contrast, paint, resin printer, sla, translucent Post navigation This seems like a good technique to keep in mind, and might even work well for hollow FDM prints done with transparent filaments. The video below has a few before and after shots, and the technique really works well to show off surface detail. In any case, be sure to provide adequate vent holes for the displaced air. seemed to prefer a thicker paint we don’t want to second guess, but intuitively a thinner paint would seem to have some advantages. ![]() Nothing special here, just craft store acrylic in a syringe. To finish off, the cured model is injected with acrylic paint. Using a curing station that can get UV light up into the voids is probably a smart idea. It’s pretty much as simple as it sounds: choose a hollow model - or modify an existing one - print it up in the usual way, and clean thoroughly inside and out with isopropanol before curing under UV. But transparent resins lend a nice look to some projects, and might benefit from ’s technique. Some resins are nicely opaque, and the fine details of a print show up just fine. Injecting paint into the model is how decided to attack this problem, and the results are pretty striking.įor sure, this isn’t a problem that everyone making resin prints is going to face. One sore point, especially for those looking to document their prints, is that the translucent resins often favored for stereolithography can make the finest details difficult to see. If you try this technique out for yourself make sure to leave a comment below telling me how you got on or tweet me a photo over at on twitter.As cool as resin-based 3D printers are, they’re not without their shortcomings. ![]() ![]() Overall this was a piece that I really enjoyed finishing and am pleased with the results, The black undercoat gave the metal finish a nice deep colour which I think matched the screen used prop fairly well. With the primer down the metal paint is sprayed in very thin light coats until the perfect level of colour shows through, with this being a realistic metal finish I wanted to bring the shine down so proceeded to top coat it all with a few light coats of Montana Gold Acrylic Varnish.įinally I used some silver acrylic paint and a dry brushing technique where the paint is wiped onto a paper towel until its almost all gone and then the edges and higher spots of the model are brushed over leaving a light scuffed kind of effect. This doesn’t require an expensive airbrush as fine detail is not needed so any cheap Ebay brush will do just fine. In order to apply this it requires a black primer undercoat which was the Black Surface Primer from Vallejo and was applied by airbrush. I sliced the STL and printed it on my Wanhao Duplicator I3 at a 0.1mm layer height and 20mm/s print speed to get the quality as good as I could, the better the print now, the less cleanup later on.Īfter printing I then went onto the finishing, a few seconds removing the raft and supports and it was straight into sanding, for this I used various grades of wet and dry sandpaper, starting with a rougher grit and bringing it up to a 600 using lots of water to make the surface nice and smooth, once complete the part was dried with a paper towel and was ready for primer.įor primer I went with a 2 in 1 filler primer that does wonders for filling in those small striations caused by the printing process, a few medium to heavy coats or this primer leaving a few minutes in between really helps to level out the surface and get it ready for painting.īefore paint I decided to add a little battle damage which I made using a scalpel to give the metal a dented gauged kind of look using the movie screen grabs and reference for placement.įor the painting I chose to use a real metal paint called Alcad II, this is an Airbrush only paint as its so thin it can’t be applied by brush. a quick search on Thingiverse brought up the perfect result, You can download the file for yourself HERE.Ī list of the materials used in this tutorial: For this tutorial I decided I wanted to recreate the helmet from the latest Batman movie, so I’m going to make a Metal finish on my print.
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